Official Luthiers Forum!

Here's a new product from Lee Valley Tools that is a cost effective alternative to a Robo-Sander. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=53229&cat=1,42 524

Yup, saw that thing last week. You can bet that one's on its way here; I'm not a tool junky, but this is one I need to try.

Well that looks interesting. BTW it's made in Bruce Dickey's hometown.

Thanks Anthony - I just ordered one of everything

I used the file form of this tool and it was really nice, BUT It went dull quickly
and I had to pick up my trusty file to finish the bass violin neck I was
shaping. I suppose if you are thinking it is like sandpaper which you need to
replace often it is cost effective, but as an alternative to a file which can last
for years it is not.

Let me know how long they last.

[QUOTE=Mario] Yup, saw that thing last week. You can bet that one's on its way here; I'm not a tool junky, but this is one I need to try.[/QUOTE]

Ok how about a tool review once you get them??

They look very interesting, I'd especially be interesting to see how they work in hard woods like rosewoods or ebony (I'm thinking of shaping bridges here)...

If they work then I'm ording a set from them...

Cheers

-Paul-

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-Paul-

Patriot Guitars

I'd especially be interesting to see how they work in hard woods like rosewoods or ebony (I'm thinking of shaping bridges here)...

You're going to wait a long time if you're waiting for me to do that with them. Be reasonable with the expectation of any tool, especially a new one. This isn't a heavy duty cutter. It is a delicate little thing. I have some of their files, and they work great, and last a long, long time, if used as they are expected to be used. But use them outside of their design parameters, and you'll be dissapointed.

I'm thinking more along the lines of brace shaping, mandolin point block shaping, and maybe, headstock shaping. I don't see these as capable of making bridges. At least, not many bridges...

I've used the rasp version of these for shaping eastern maple necks and they work just fine and last pretty well.

I plan on using the rotary version posted above for near final shaping of headstocks, ebony tail pieces and finger rests. I've developed a great fear of my router table since being hit in the chest when making a body mold.

I just finished 2 different forms with it this weekend. Total of eight 1/2 guitar shapes. Used it with the "follower kit". It worked amazingly well. My router is out of commission, so this did the trick. It did dull after about 6, though. MDF and Birch laminate plywood. It is a great tool, but I am on my second blade refill. Cheaper than router bits, but longevity not as long. I do plan on using it for my bridges and bracing. Its a little more forgiving than a robosander and you really get the "feel" of it much more. I suspect it would do well with the hardwoods, but not thick pieces. Its really more of a finese tool than a workhorse, but I found it really fun and easy to use. It does not heat up very easily, so it really doesn't burn unless you press really really hard and its dull as heck. It was able to carve a stack of four 3/4" pieces. I pushed the limit, for sure. Now I know what it can and can't do. I highly recommend it.



I made my own table for it to attach to the drill press. Its hollow underneath to get the dust and such out of my way. It does make a really nice finished edge on it, too.

-j.

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“If God dwells inside us like some people say, I sure hope He likes enchiladas, because that's what He's getting”
-jack handy

I have used the Micro-Plane products in all of their various forms...they are really handy in the kitchen where I use them to grate orange peel for zest, grate fresh nutmeg, horseradish and ginger, and to shave chocolate. They probably sell more units to chefs than to woodworkers.

In the shop in the handled file forms and I use them on necks, for headslots and for shaping the end design on my headstocks (I build classicals).

The key to getting them to last longer is to use a light touch...as a plane, not as a file or rasp...the cutting edges are very thin blade edges and if pushed dull quickly.

My guess is that the short life of the blade refills for shaping forms has to do with the abrasive nature of the glue in both the MDF and ply coupled with a speed that may be too high. Too high a spindle speed would tend to heat up the cutting edge as well as making it more difficult to take off material which would also dull them faster.

Shawn,
Thats exactly what I found. You can't force the wood into the blade or it doesn't last very long. The max speed on this rotary tool is 2,500rpm and they recommend 1,500-2,000 so it is relatively slow. Similar to the hand planes/rasps. I'm anxious to get further into the guitar to see where else I can use it.

-j.

_________________
“If God dwells inside us like some people say, I sure hope He likes enchiladas, because that's what He's getting”
-jack handy